Spotlight on: St Mark’s Church, Zagreb

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One of the most famous sights in Croatia is St Mark’s Church in Zagreb. It’s one of “those kinds of sights” that is often featured in tourist advertising for the country along with Zlatni Rat Beach, Plitvice Lakes National Park and Dubrovnik’s Old Town Walls and similar. And – like all those aforementioned beauties – it’s definitely the kind of thing you need to see in real life, not just on screen.

With its stunning tiled roof featuring two historic shields of Croatia, it’s an absolute must-see when visiting Croatia’s capital city. It’s easily done so on a walking tour of Zagreb’s sight-filled Upper Town, and when you turn the corner onto St Mark’s Square (Trg svetog Marka) you’ll be rewarded with a stunning view of this iconic sight.

Zagreb Photos - St Mark's Church
St Mark’s Church, with its famous tiled roof
Zagreb Photos - St Mark's Church Roof
A close-up of the tiled roof – it shows the coat of arms of the Kingdom of Croatia, Slavonia and Dalmatia (left) and the coat of arms of the City of Zagreb (right)

History of the St Mark’s Church, Zagreb

The original church that stood here is understood to be from the 13th century, officially making it one of the oldest buildings in Zagreb. However, it is just one Romanesque window on the southern wall that still exists today. Much of the main structure and layout of the church is from the 14th century, including beautiful sculpture work in its Gothic southern portal.

The church was extensively renovated and reconstructed in the 19th century (especially due to the devastating 1880 earthquake), with designs by Viennese architect Friedrich von Schmidt, and Hermann Bolle who was heavily involved with Zagreb’s city plans and other grand buildings at that time. Works then included the lowering of the floor, the burying of tombs underground and the removal of the church’s Baroque altars with the installation of three stone altars instead. It was during this renovation that the Church received its beautiful tiled roof.

Further renovations took place in the early part of the 20th century, with works by famed Croatian sculptor Ivan Mestrovic installed during this time.

In March 2020, another earthquake caused structural damage to the Church. After repairs, the Church was reopened to Mass in December 2023.

Features

Have I mentioned the beautiful tiled roof?! The colourful glazed tiles depict two coats of arms. On the left, you will see the coat of arms of the Kingdom of Croatia, Dalmatia and Slavonia, an autonomous kingdom within Austro-Hungary that existed from 1868 to 1918. Within this latter coat of arms, you can see elements of the Kingdom of Croatia (the red and white checkered part), of Slavonia (the bottom blue – white – red – white – blue part which features a pine marten) and of Dalmatia (the upper right portion with three lions).

St Mark's Church, Zagreb, a closeup of the Coat of Arms of Croatia, Dalmatia and Slavonia
A closeup of the Coat of Arms of Croatia, Dalmatia and Slavonia
St Mark's Church, Coat of Arms of Zagreb closeup
A close-up of the Coat of Arms of Zagreb

The right-hand coat of arms is that of Zagreb – or, in fact, Gradec which is the historic town (largely located where today’s Upper Town stands) from which Zagreb hails. Zagreb’s coat of arms is actually a castle on a blue background, whilst Gradec’s is of the castle on a red background – as shown on the church’s roof.

St Mark's Church, Zagreb
St Mark’s Church, with the parliament building – Sabor – on the right

The impressive Gothic portal on its southern wall features sculpture work from the 14th century with fifteen figures including Joseph, Mary and Jesus. This work is thought to be done by the Parler workshop from Prague.

On the outside of the northwestern wall you can find the oldest coat of arms of Zagreb, which is from 1499.

Getting There

As I’ve mentioned, the Church is located in the middle of the cobbled St Mark’s Square in the Upper Town part of Zagreb. It is a short walk from many of the city’s other most famous sights, such as the Stone Gate, Lotrscak Tower and the Funicular. Also located on St Mark’s Square is the the Croatian Parliament Building, the Sabor and Banski Dvori which houses the Croatian government.

If travelling from elsewhere in Zagreb, the best idea is to take a tram to the main square – Ban Jelacic Square – first. From here, it is then a 10-minute walk to St Mark’s Church; walk up Ulica Pavla Radica until you get to the statue of St George, then go round it and through the Stone Gate and then straight ahead until you get to St Mark’s Church.

Alternatively, from the main square, walk along Ilica until you get to the Funicular. Ride it to its Upper Station and then walk north, past Lotrscak Tower, in a northern direction for a few minutes to once again hit St Mark’s Square.

Visiting St Mark’s Church, Zagreb

It used to be possible to get right up close to the Church and do a full circular walk around the exterior. Unfortunately, railings have been positioned around St Mark’s Church for a few years now due to security issues – thanks to the two political buildings on this same square. This means that it’s not possible to get particularly close to the Church.

Nevertheless, you can still take a photo or two or three hundred from the edge of the square itself. You are there, of course, to see the wonderful tiled roof so point your camera(phone) upwards and start clicking away!

It is not possible to visit the interior of the church unless you attend a Holy Mass. These are held at 6pm on working days and at 11am and 6pm on Sundays and religious holidays.

St Mark's Church, Zagreb
St Mark’s Church in Markov trg (St Mark’s Square); the roof tiles show the coat of arms of Zagreb (right) and the coat of arms of the Kingdom of Croatia, Dalmatia and Slavonia (left)

Take a look at some of the walking tours of Zagreb below that include St Mark’s Church as one of the sights you see:

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More info

The official website of the Church is zupa-svmarkaev.hr although this website is in the Croatian language only.

Spotlight on: Cathedral of St James, Sibenik

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In the next instalment of our Spotlight on… series, we now move to the charming north Dalmatian town of Sibenik and its impressive Cathedral of St James. The Cathedral is one of the most important sights in Sibenik and in fact in the whole of Croatia too – it’s a highly recognisable structure.

The Cathedral is also one of Croatia’s UNESCO World Heritage sites, added to the list in 2000. It is one of two UNESCO sites in Sibenik – the other being St Nicholas Fort which is listed as a Venetian Work of Defence from the 16th & 17th Centuries.

Use this page to find out more about the Cathedral and how to visit it.

Sibenik - The Cathedral of St. James
The Cathedral of St. James

Getting There

The Cathedral of St James is located right in the centre of Sibenik, in the old part of the town. If you’re walking down the seaside promenade known as the Riva, you will be able to see it – it’s a quick walk up a set of stone steps to read the Cathedral itself.

Reaching Sibenik to get to the Cathedral is easy as there are good bus connections from elsewhere in Croatia. The bus station in the city is also a short walk from the Cathedral.

Entrance of the Cathedral
Photos of Sibenik - St James Cathedral
Another look at the front of St James’s Cathedral

About The Cathedral of St James

The Cathedral was constructed between 1431 and 1536, with several different Italian and Dalmatian architects responsible for the look of the structure over this time. The main architects involved in the construction were Francesco di Giacomo, Georgius Mathei Dalmaticus (also known as Juraj Dalmatinac) and Niccolo di Giovanni Fiorentino. Juraj Dalmatinac directed construction work between 1444 and 1473; a famous Croatian sculptor, you can find a statue placed opposite the entrance to the Cathedral as a memorial to him.

First intended to be built as a rather straightforward church, plans of the building changed significantly to include side naves, apses, its dome and a baptistery. Almost all of this work came under the plans of Juraj Dalmatinac, and for this reason, he is so closely linked to the Cathedral.

Although there were largely three different phases to its construction, the Cathedral appears to take the form of one unified build and there is little to identify separate plans by different architects.

The relatively long construction period means the Cathedral features both Gothic and Renaissance design styles because of the transition from one to the other at the time.

Features of The Cathedral of St James

The main features of the Cathedral include its 32-metre-high dome, which sits atop 4 columns, its three naves and three apses (domed recesses) and 74 faces (or portraits) with assorted expressions on the exterior of locals of the time.

The front of the Cathedral features the Lion Gate which depicts Adam and Eve on columns supported by lions.

The interior of the Cathedral is highly detailed and features the baptistery where three angels support the baptismal font, the crypt of Bishop Sizgoric and the crypt of Bishop Stafilic.

Photos of Sibenik - St James Cathedral interior
The interior of the cathedral – look at the amazing height of the altar

Rather impressively, the Cathedral was constructed entirely from stone (limestone and marble from the nearby island of Brac) without brick or wooden supports.

The "portraits" featured on the exterior of the Cathedral
Cathedral of St James external “portraits”

Opening Hours and Price

The Cathedral can and should be enjoyed from its exterior first – do spend some time enjoying its impressive facade and walking around the three sides to admire all the detail on the outside.

Once you’ve soaked up all of the ornate external decoration, you can pay a visit to the inside of the Cathedral of St James. The Cathedral is open year-round (only by appointment from the 1st December to Easter) from 8.30am to 7.30pm or 8.30pm depending on the month. Entry fee is €3.

Do be aware that as a working Cathedral, mass takes place daily (and three times on Sundays) so you may prefer to visit at other times.

Other Ways of Seeing and Enjoying The Cathedral

You may like to join a guided walking tour of Sibenik which will include some time looking at the Cathedral. See below for some ideas of walking tours:

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More info

You can learn more about the Cathedral of St James on the Sibenik Tourist Board website. There is also a very detailed background on the Cathedral on the UNESCO World Heritage Convention website.

You can also learn plenty on this Google Arts & Culture walkthrough: The Cathedral of St James in ibenik, Croatia.

Spotlight on: The Arena, Pula

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The stunning Arena in Pula is one of the most magical sights in all of Croatia. This three-story (on its largest side) Roman amphitheatre is the sixth-largest amphitheatre in the world but – with all four sides intact – it is the best-preserved amphitheatre. Imagine that! Read on for more details about this ancient gem in Pula, how to visit it and what to see there.

Getting There

The Arena is located in the northeastern part of Pula, a short distance from the sea. Take a look at our Getting to Istria page for details of flights to Pula Airport, and then out Getting to and from Pula Airport for how to get to the city itself.

The Arena is actually a short walk (no more than 15 minutes) from the bus station and a similar distance from the train station. It is also very close to the port in Pula, should you be making your way to the city by boat.

You can also take a local city bus to the Arena – buses 4, 5a, 8, 9 and 71 go past this wonderful building.

An aerial shot of the Arena in Pula
An aerial shot

About The Arena and Its History

The Arena was built in several stages or iterations during the rule of several different Roman Emperors between 27 BC and 68 AD. The foundations of the first amphitheatre were built during the time of Emperor Augustus. This was extended during the reign of Emperor Claudius and completed under the reign of Emperor Vespasian. At the time of its construction, Pula – then called Pietas Iulia – was the centre of Roman rule in this part of the Empire; the Arena was built just outside the Town Walls.

The Arena is named after the Latin word for sand (harena) which is what the floor of the central part would have been covered in. Its external walls are made from limestone.

Arena Pula
A close-up of the exterior wall of the Arena

During its use in Roman times, it would have held up to 23,000 spectators. These days, about 5,000 people usually attend events held here. Back in those Roman times, the amphitheatre was used for what you can expect – gladiatorial fights and other entertainment occasions, as well as being a place for social meetings.

Gladiatorial fights were banned in the 5th century and the Arena subsequently became used for a cattle market. In that same century, parts of the stone of the structure began to be used as a source of building materials for the local area although this practice was stopped in the 13th century.

In the 16th century, the Venetian Senate proposed to dismantle the amphitheatre in its entirety and rebuild it in Venice although this was (thankfully!) prevented by Sentator  Gabriele Emo. A plaque in tribute to him was placed on the northwestern tower.

The restoration of the Arena began in the 19th century.

Arena Pula
Peeking through one of the arches in the Arena

Features of The Arena

The oval-shaped Arena stands just over 32 metres high, stretching out over an area of about 132 metres wide and 105 metres deep. The central part – where Roman entertainment would have taken place – measures 68 metres by 41 metres. One side of the amphitheatre, the one closest to the Adriatic Sea, has three visible stories (plus a fourth foundation story) whilst the other three sides have two. This is because the Arena is built on a natural slope.

Built in limestone, the two lower stories contain 72 arches whilst the top story is made up of 67 square windows with a cornice feature placed on top. There are four rectangular towers set within the walls which strengthened them; these towers contained water reservoirs.

Arena Pula
A view of the exterior walls showing the arches and the square windows of the top story

Below the main Arena floor were constructed a series of chambers for storing animals and passageways to lead them and gladiators up to the Arena.

Perhaps surprisingly, the Arena could have been covered up in the case of bad weather through a series of pulleys and ropes attached to wooden masts that would pull sails over the roof.

Opening Hours and Entrance Price

The Arena is open year-round with extended opening hours – usually until 10pm – in the summer months.

Entry costs €10 for adults and €5 for children.

The interior of the Arena, Pula, Croatia
The interior of the Arena

What to See and Do at The Arena

Stroll through the Arena and really get a feel for what it must have been like back in Roman times. Unlike, say, the Colosseum in Rome, you can have an uninterrupted stroll right through the centre of this amphitheatre. At times, it almost feels like quite an intimate venue…but then imagine standing in the centre and being watched by 23,000 people!

Take yourself up to the seating levels where you can and now imagine yourself as a Roman spectator. Entry to the Arena was free back in those days but a seating system based on social class would have existed…so make sure you sit in the “best seats”. Whilst you’re up on this level, do also peer out of the Arena.

Arena Pula - Interior
The interior of the Arena – you can see the seating as well the setting up of a concert

Head down below ground to walk through the passageways and chambers. Here, you will find an exhibition on viticulture and olive oil production in Istria during Roman times with a particular focus on how oil was derived from olives in those times.

There is also a large collection of well-preserved Roman amphorae, which were used for transporting liquids.

The Arena, Pula - Roman Amphorae
Roman amphorae at The Arena

Do be sure to also spend some time walking around the outside of the Arena to fully realise the magnificence of this large, wonderfully preserved Roman structure.

There are no guided tours for the Arena itself once you are inside. You may like instead to join a guided walking tour of Pula – as shown below – which includes entry to the Arena:

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Other Ways of Seeing and Enjoying The Arena

These days, the Arena is often used as a concert and entertainment venue in the summer months, and there’s something rather special about enjoying this kind of experience in such a historic venue. Perhaps most famously, the Arena is used as a venue during the Pula Film Festival which takes place every July. In 2024, the 71st edition of the festival will take place meaning it is the oldest film festival in Croatia.

There are also numerous concerts held in the Arena in the summer. For example, in 2024, Dua Lipa, Avril Lavigne, Simple Minds, Lenny Kravitz and Duran Duran will all be performing there. Previous performers over the years have included Sting, Elton John, The Foo Fighters and Luciano Pavarotti. One-off sporting events are also sometimes held here.

Special opening night events of some of Croatia’s music festivals – such as Outlook – have also previously been held here in the past when such festivals were held in the Pula region.

Summer also sees the regular Spectacula Antiqua gladiatorial and Roman reenactments take place. Just the thing to take you back all those many centuries ago!

More info

You can learn more about the Arena on the Archeological Museums of Istria website.

Spotlight on: Diocletian’s Palace, Split

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One of the most famed sights in Croatia, the Diocletian’s Palace area in Split is also one of the most historic sights you may visit on your travels. It is an absolute must-see and contains many individually interesting elements to explore. The whole area, right at the very core of the city, is also a thoroughly enjoyable part of Split with numerous cafes, restaurants, bars, shops and more. You’ll be strolling around taking in a whole tonne of history whilst also getting so much of what Split has to offer.

The “Historical Complex of Split with the Palace of Diocletian” was declared a UNESCO World Heritage in 1979. (It was one of Croatia’s first; Dubrovnik’s Old Town and the Plitvice Lakes were also added to the list in the same year.)

Diocletian's Palace

About Diocletian’s Palace and History

If you don’t yet know much about Diocletian’s Palace, you might consider Dioletina’s retirement home to be like any typical European palace structure. In your head, you may be considering an extremely large and ornate building, perhaps set in large, highly manicured grounds and full of rather ostentatious furniture.

Diocletian’s Palace is nothing like that! (At least not today; the palace may well have had some of these components all those many centuries ago.)

The palace was built as a retirement home (yes, really) for Roman Emperor Diocletian who was born in Salona (now present-day Solin) sometime between the years 242 to 245. He retired from Emperor life in the year 305 and lived in the palace until his death in 311. Work on constructing the palace is though to have begun in the year 295 with materials from local sources used – particularly white limestone from Brac and bricks made locally. You can see below what the structure would have looked like around the time of its competition – you can see that the palace did indeed stretch all the way out to the sea.

Diocletian's Palace (original appearance)

Diocletian’s Palace. (2024, February 8). In Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diocletian%27s_Palace

The Palace was built in a rectangular shape of roughly 215 metres by 180 metres. There were towers at each corner of the Palace and octagonal towers framing each entrance into the Palace. The area of the structure was divided into four with two main “streets” within. The southern gate would have been the Emperor’s main entry into the Palace by sea and, indeed, the southern part of the Palace would have contained his residence whilst the northern part would have contained quarters for servants and guards.

After Diocletian’s death, the Palace continued to be used by members of the emperor’s family. It rose in importance again in the 7th century when Salona (Solin), once the capital of Dalmatia and a large (for that time) city was destroyed by an invasion by the Slavs that had by now reached this area. Some of the previous inhabitants of Salona sought shelter and refuge in the large Palace area, and Palace life – now city life – began to resume. In the many years since citizens have continuously lived within what is deemed to be the Palace area and adapted its use multiple times.

Getting There

The Diocletian’s Palace area is just by the Riva, the main harbourfront in Split. It is a short walk from the main bus and train stations and port in the city (which are all adjacent to each other), about 10 minutes.

Should you be travelling from further afield in Split, there are numerous local bus lines that stop near the Palace. You can check out Split’s bus network on the Promet Split website.

What to See and Do at Diocletian’s Palace

You really could get lost whilst wandering the streets of the Palace…but try not to! In all seriousness, the best way of seeing the Palace is to go back and forth through its many little streets taking in all the many sights and experiences. Below are some of the main things to look out for and see.

Gates

As you approach the Palace area, you’ll no doubt enter through to the main part via one of the gates. As we’ve mentioned, the southern gate – the Brass Gate – would have once been the main entrance from the sea and is the smallest of all the gates. Today, this gate allows you entry from the Riva. On the eastern side is the Silver Gate which was reconstructed in 1952 after Dusica Church was destroyed during World War II; the gate had become part of the Church during its construction.

On the northern side, right by the large Grgur Ninski (Gregory of Nin) statue is the Golden Gate (Zlatna vrata) which would have faced the direction of Salona and would have been the main entrance into the Palace.

Golden Gate (Zlatna vrata), Split
Golden Gate / Zlatna vrata

On the eastern side is the Iron Gate which is the only gate of the four that has seen continuous use since it was first constructed.

The Cathedral of Saint Domnius and Belltower

The octagonally-shaped Cathedral of St Domnius (Katedrala Svetog Duje in Croatian) is the oldest Catholic cathedral in the world in its original structure, consecrated as it was in the 7th century. The Cathedral contains the 3rd-century mausoleum for Emperor Diocletian whilst the belltower was a later addition, built in the 13th century. Diocletian’s sarcophagus was destroyed in the 5th century

The 57-metre-tall belltower can be climbed for superb views over Split in all directions including out over the twinkling Adriatic Sea.

The Peristyle with the Cathedral and its Belltower to the left

Temple of Jupiter

By the entrance of this former temple is another 3,500-year-old Egyptian sphynx, this one being headless. The Temple itself was converted into a Baptistry dedicated to St John the Baptist in the 6th century. The Temple contains sarcophagi with the remains of Ivan of Ravenna and Lovre, both Archbishops of Split in the 11th century. You will also find a bronze statue of St John the Baptist created by famed Croatian sculptor Ivan Mestrovic.

The Peristyle

The Peristyle is a remarkable open-air square which would have been the main square of the Palace even way back when. Consider this as you sip on a relaxing coffee on the stone steps whilst admiring the view. The Peristyle is also home to a 3,500-year-old Egyptian sphynx.

The Vestibule

The inside of the vestibule is circular, and you’ll notice the circular open-air top which was once covered by a dome. The vestibule was a hall in the days of the Palace, serving as an entrance to the Palace apartments. These days you come across traditional acapella singers (singing klapa music) who make use of the excellent acoustics in the Vestibule.

Diocletian's Palace - Vestibule
Vestibule

Cellars

The cellars were originally used as storage areas when the Palace was first built. The importance of the cellars is because they are so well preserved and provide and excellent idea of what the above-ground portion of the Palace would have been like.

Part of the cellar area can be easily visited as you pass through the Brass Gate from the Riva towards the direction of the Vestibule and the Peristyle. You will find numerous little market stalls selling souvenirs and other trinkets.

Access to the rest of the cellars is ticketed (see below).

Opening Hours and Entrance Price

The main Palace area is free to enter at all times of day and night, year-round, and there is no fee to enter, of course!

Parts of the Palace, however, do have an entrance fee and particular opening times.

All parts of the Cathedral, including the Belltower, require tickets to enter.

Part of the cellars that are ticketed are open 8.30am – 8pm (summer hours, April to October) or 9am to 5pm (winter hours, November to March). Tickets cost €8 for adults and €6 for children aged 7 to 14, seniors (aged 65 and over) and students with ID. Children aged 6 and under can enter for free. You can buy tickets at the ticket booth in the Palace or on the Museum of the City of Split website.

Other Ways of Seeing and Enjoying Diocletian’s Palace

If you’d like to step back in time – virtually – and see for yourself what Diocletian’s Palace would have been like all those many centuries ago, head to the Diocletian’s Dream experience. Don a VR headset and immerse yourself in Split life in the year 305.

There are numerous walking tours of the Diocletian’s Palace area that you can join; led by knowledgeable guides, the tours will really give you an expansive information base from which to learn all about the Emperor and his retirement home. Take a look at some of the tours below:

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More info

You can read more about the Palace on the Split Tourist Board website.

Trsat Castle

Spotlight on: Trsat Castle, Rijeka

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It has to be said that the country of Croatia is blessed with a number of very fine things (islands, a beautiful coastline, a rich history, many a fine sight…to name just a few!). Something that features relatively frequently in the country but perhaps not that well-known to visitors is its castles. One such castle to visit – very easily done so, as it’s just “above” one of Croatia’s main cities – is Trsat Castle. Read on below for information on how to visit the castle and what to see and do there.

Trsat Castle
Trsat Castle

About Trsat Castle

Trsat Castle is located on a hill above Croatia’s third-largest city, the very interesting Rijeka. The castle sits 138 metres above sea level meaning that you’ll enjoy excellent views when visiting, looking out over the city and the Adriatic Sea beyond (even to the island of Krk), and the nearby hills in the other direction.

Trsat Castle is one of the oldest such structures located along the coastline. Situated as it is on a hill, you are right to think that it was built as a defensive building. The current castle was built in the 13th century by the Croatian noble Frankopan family, although it is believed to be sited on a previous Roman hill fort. The castle fell into disrepair during the 17th and 18th centuries when it increasingly was no longer needed as a defensive structure. It was renovated during the 19th century

Getting There

The easiest way of getting to the castle is to take one of the local buses that operate in the city. Rijeka bus line 2 or Rijeka bus line 8 both operate from the centre to Trsat and both options will have a total journey time of around 25 minutes.

If you like to work up a bit of adrenaline before being rewarded with stunning views, you could also walk to the castle. Take the Petar Kruzic stairs which start just beyond Tito Square where it crosses the River Rijecina. Consisting of 561 stone steps and ascending up to 138 metres high, as we’ve mentioned, it is a bit of an energy-busting climb – but you might also consider part of the Trsat Castle experience.

The Petar Kruzic stairs to Trsat Castle
The Petar Kruzic stairs to Trsat Castle

What to See and Do at Trsat Castle

Whatever way you choose to arrive at the castle, once you’re here, start exploring the remains of the castle’s structure. You’ll get a feel of how impressive this building used to be as you walk around it, and take a look at the information signs which explain the different components of what you can see.

Of particular interest are the towers, some of which can be climbed for an even taller lookout viewpoint. You will also find a mausoleum – the building with MIR JUNAKA on it – which is the resting place of 19th-century military commander Laval Nugent; his family owned the castle up until the end of World War II.

Trsat Castle Mausoleum
Trsat Castle Mausoleum

The central courtyard of the castle is now home to a cafe bar which is very well placed to offer refreshment with a fantastic lookout point. The castle and the surrounding area is often used these days as a venue for various events.

Opposite is the Trsat Castle Park in which you can enjoy a nice bit of greenery and relaxation before you return back down to the city.

If you’ve climbed up the stairs to the castle, you will have passed by the Church of Our Lady of Trsat. This is one of the main pilgrimage places in Croatia, and the steps actually form part of the pilgrimage route.

View from Trsat Castle
View from Trsat Castle

Opening Hours and Entrance Price

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It is free to enter the castle, which is open year-round.

More info on Trsat Castle

Learn more about the castle from Rijeka Tourist Board.

Greeting to the Sun, Zadar at night

Spotlight on: Greeting to the Sun, Zadar

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At the start of the new year, let’s continue Visit Croatia’s “Spotlight on…” series with a wonderfully colourful and super magical modern sight in the exceedingly charming town of Zadar in North Dalmatia. The Greeting to the Sun light installation might seem a bit hard to comprehend on paper but in real life, it’s a wonderful experience. It’s also a true example of how a relatively new landmark can equally delight visitors and sit alongside and complement much older sights.

Greeting to the Sun, Zadar
Visitors enjoying Greeting to the Sun at ngiht

About Greeting to the Sun

The Greeting to the Sun (Pozdrav suncu in Croatian) monument was installed in 2008 and designed by Croatian architect Nikola Basic. (Basic is also the man behind Zadar’s Sea Organ which is just a few steps away…but we’ll cover that excellent audio experience in another post!) It is made up of 300 glass solar panels that harness the sun’s rays during the day to power the lights at night. Pretty clever and inventive, wouldn’t you say?

The monument’s glass panels are arranged in a circle that is 22 metres in diameter – so it’s a fairly large installation and can be enjoyed by many, many people all at the same time. The panels are laid in stone which gives the whole area a neat, modern appearance and is a suitable contrast to the colour when the installation is awakened at dusk.

Just by the “Sun” are smaller circular panels – which also light up – that represent the planets of the solar system. It’s clear that this whole monument was rather smartly designed and is a great addition to the wonderful Zadar.

Getting There

The Greeting to the Sun is located on the northwestern tip of the peninsula on which Zadar’s Old Town is located. Head to the Riva in Zadar – the beautiful seaside promenade – and walk in a northerly direction. If you can hear the Sea Organ, you’re going the right way! Essentially, keep walking until you can walk no more (because otherwise, you’d fall into the sea) and you’ll find the twinkling lights underfoot.

Greeting to the Sun, Zadar, in daytime
Location of Greeting to the Sun – it’s popular in daytime too!

The Experience

This light installation is best viewed when its lights come on, so the most suitable time to experience it is just after sundown. Or rather, head to the Greeting to the Sun for sunset – to take in one of Zadar’s always gorgeous sunsets and to enjoy the convivial atmosphere on the Riva – and then see the lights of the installation come on.

Once the lights come on, then what? Well, look, watch and enjoy them! You’ll notice the Greeting to the Sun lights up in all manner of colours and light intensities, with different patterns continuously moving around the whole installation. Children in particular will be delighted chasing after the lights and patterns as they shift around; you may find yourself doing the same.

You may also want to return to the lights later in the evening (perhaps after a tasty dinner or after some drinks…mind the maraschino!) to really see them in full action when it’s properly dark.

But the Greeting to the Sun is also worth seeing in bright daylight as you’ll be able to see the glass panels better when unlit to get a better understanding of their mechanism.

Greeting to the Sun, Zadar at night
An aerial shot of Greeting to the Sun that shows its lights and colours – note the “planets” stretching out above it

Opening Hours and Prices

Two bits of good news here! As it’s in a public space, the Greeting to the Sun installation can be visited any time of day or night. (Although do see above what we would recommend is the best time of day to see it.)

It is also completely free to visit – again, because it is in a public space!

More info on Greeting to the Sun

Read more about the Greeting to the Sun on the Zadar Tourist Board website.

Zagreb Cable Car Top Station

Spotlight on: Zagreb Cable Car and Sljeme 360 Viewpoint

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Following on from my focus on Dubrovnik’s Old Town Walls, in the second of the spotlight on series, I’m going to take a look at a couple of far more modern sights. Both found high up on Mount Medvenica above the city, they are the excellent Zagreb Cable Car and the brand-new Sljeme 360 Viewpoint in the TV tower at the peak of this mountain.

Zagreb Cable Car Top Station
The top station of Zagreb Cable Car

About Zagreb Cable Car and Sljeme 360

Zagreb’s Cable Car was opened in February 2022 whilst the Sljeme 360 experience was opening very recently indeed – in October 2023.

Zagreb originally had a cable car that opened in 1963 to transport skiers up the mountain, with a travelling distance of around 4,000 metres. This old cable car stopped operating in 2007 after it was found to require extensive repair and a decision was (eventually) made to build a new version.

The new cable car covers a distance of 5,017 metres and has a height difference of 754 metres between the lower and upper stations.

The TV tower was built in 1973 and stands 169 metres tall.

Zagreb Cable Car Bottom Station
The bottom station of Zagreb Cable Car

Getting There

The lower station of the Zagreb cable car is located in the Gracansko dolje region of northern Zagreb. It’s easy to get here by public transport, although you will most likely require a change somewhere along the way. You can make the whole journey by tram, or by tram and bus.

If travelling from the main square, take tram number 14 north to its end point of Mihaljevac. Once there, you’ll see the stop (it’s only about a minute walk away) for tram number 15 which heads to Gracansko dolje. This tram is rather unusual and an experience in itself – it only operates for four stops and at somewhat of an incline (compared to the other Zagreb trams at least) whilst it speeds along the track, seemingly mere centimetres away from the houses at points.

At Mihaljevac, it is possible to take bus number 233 for five stops to Gracansko dolje instead. Personally, I would recommend the tram option – it is far more fun!

It is also possible to reach Gracansko dolje by car, for there is a large parking garage below the base station building. Or you could also take an Uber or Bolt vehicle, but…take the tram, it’s so much fun!

Either way, once you reach the Gracansko dolje, you’ll see the gleaming, modern Zagreb cable car base station in front of you. Resist the urge to climb the climbing wall/bear hybrid here (you’ll know what I mean when you see it!) and head inside to purchase your tickets and begin your journey.

The Experience

The Cable Car

The six-person cabins of the cable car are much like any other cable car you may have come across – including those up mountains at ski resorts! Funnily enough, Zagreb’s cable car has something in common with those – for it is possible to ski on Sljeme in the winter months, and the cabins are adorned with sports equipment (i.e. ski and snowboard) holders on the outside.

Zagreb Cable Car Cabins
About to board the Zagreb Cable Car

As the cabins continuously pass by being pulled by the ever-moving cable, you have a short window to enter. Not too long and not too short, but just enough time for the four of us to enter along with the buggy we also had with us. This adds a certain excitement to the proceedings.

View from the cable car looking back down
View from Zagreb Cable Car
View from the cable car in the direction of travel

Visiting in the mid-afternoon in late October saw hardly any other visitors on the cable car – certainly, there was no one boarding at the same time as us, and as we ascended (and later descended), few other cabins had people in.

Going up in the cable car offers stunning views over Zagreb and of the lush forest below, which is full of autumn colours at this time of year. The full journey takes around 20 minutes each way, which is plenty of time to take in the magic of your surroundings and snap plenty of photos in all directions. And to admire the cable car itself, of course.

Interestingly, once you board the cable car at the bottom you’ll be whizzed through another cable car station almost immediately. On our journey, we wondered about the purpose of this station; it turns out that this “corner” station is required to change the direction of the cable car’s travels by 28 degrees. Huh!

There’s also an intermediate station – Brestovac – at which people can disembark.

At Sljeme

Once you reach the top of the cable car, you’re at Sljeme, the peak of Mount Medvednica. You’ll immediately the the Zagreb TV tower in front of you (home to the Zagreb 360 viewpoint which I’ll talk about in a second) as well as a little restaurant/cafe for refreshments.

OIV TV Tower, Zagreb
The OIV TV Tower

Take a look all around you for the amazing views – Zagreb stretches out in front of you (and it really does stretch out; the city is perhaps far larger than people think), whilst you can see little towns and villages at the base of the mountain in the other direction.

A short walk away from where the cable car places you are a few more restaurants as well as the Hotel Tomislavov Dom which would be an excellent place to base yourself if you really want to explore the nearby Medvednica Nature Park or Medvedgrad Castle.

The Zagreb 360 viewpoint also has its own little cafe, so after your hard work ascending the cable car you have the additional tough job of choosing where to reset for a little while, enjoying a coffee or hot chocolate. (Or a cup of whipped cream in the case of my toddler.)

We opted for Vidikovac Sljeme which has a pretty wide menu (had I not already had lunch, I would definitely have opted for one of their hearty-looking soups!) and seating next to large windows for you to really take in the view.

Should you be travelling on the cable car in winter, you might have come up to Sljeme to go skiing! There are some ski/snowboard rental shops up here too…and, of course, here is where the ski runs start!

Zagreb 360 Viewpoint

The 169 metre-tall Zagreb TV tower (the Sljeme OIV tower, to give it its proper name) is now home to the Zagreb 360 Viewpoint experience, which is located roughly highway up the tower – at an altitude of 1,118 metres above sea level.

A fast and large lift whisks you up to the inside portion of the viewpoint where there is also a cafe. To my delight, the cafe’s tables all had boards and pieces of the game Čovječe, ne ljuti see (translates to Man, don’t get angry; essentially it is the game Ludo) which I remember playing endlessly as a child. We attempted a game before the toddler interrupted and started throwing pieces around.

Covjece ne luti se board game at Sljeme 360 Viewpoint
Ready for a game of Covjece, ne luti se?

Of course, the view from up here is spectacular – and all around, seeing as you’re in a tower! I highly recommend also visiting the Zagreb 360 viewpoint once you’re up Sljeme.

Funnily enough, as we were visiting barely a week after it had opened, we could see that some of the furnishings weren’t quite finished.

Opening Hours and Prices

Make sure the weather is good before setting off to enjoy these attractions!

Zagreb Cable Car

The cable car operates from 10am to 7pm (last departure from the lower station is at 6.30pm) every day, year-round. The cable car may not operate in the case of strong winds or bad weather, so do check the Zagreb Cable Car website before you set off to make sure it is operating.

It costs €16.59 return (€9.95 one way) for adults; €9.95 return (€6.64 one way) for people aged 15-24 and 65+; and €3.98 return (€2.65 one way) for kids aged 0 to 15 or for people with disabilities. (These are all 2023 prices.)

It has to be said that Zagreb Cable Car has been accused of being too expensive – in my opinion, the experience on this modern transport method and the views make it worth it.

Zagreb 360 Viewpoint

The viewpoint is open 10.30am to 6.30pm daily (from 9.30am on Saturdays).

This costs an additional €10 for adults; €7.50 for kids aged 12 to 18, students and those aged 65+; €5 for kids aged 5 to 12; kids under 5 go free. (2023 prices)

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More info

You can learn more about Zagreb Cable Car at the Sljeme 360 Viewpoint on their respective websites, and there’s additional information on the cable car on the ZET website.

Spotlight on: Old Town Walls, Dubrovnik

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In the first of a regular series looking at some of Croatia’s most famous – and perhaps lesser-known – sights in more detail, today we’re taking a look at the Old Town Walls, Dubrovnik. These famed walls run for a length of 1,940 metres around the Old Town part of Dubrovnik and are 25 metres tall at their highest point. In the interior, the walls have a thickness of between 4 metres and 6 metres, whilst on the portion facing out over the Adriatic Sea, they are 1.5 metres to 3 metres thick.

Old Town Walls Dubrovnik
A “close-up” look at the Old Town Walls Dubrovnik

The walls are stunning to experience for yourself in real life and have a fascinating history. They have protected Dubrovnik during a number of attacks over the centuries and served as excellent protection during the Homeland War in Croatia in the early 1990s. The walls also withstood an incredibly powerful earthquake in 1667 (when 2,000 locals are estimated to have died, and many of the Old Town buildings were destroyed) and were barely damaged.

History of the Old Town Walls, Dubrovnik

Portions of the walls were first constructed in the 13th century, with the basic shape fully outlined by the 14th century. The walls were continuously added to over the subsequent centuries, with considerable work on the walls undertaken in the 15th and 16th centuries.

Many builders and architects contributed to the construction of the walls and their elements over time, including Juraj Dalmatinac (who worked on Minceta Fortress) who is famous for his work in Sibenik.

Features of the Old Town Walls, Dubrovnik

As we’ve mentioned, the walls run for 1,940 metres in length and include a number of towers, fortresses and gates, and we’ll take a look at some of the best ones here.

Minceta Fortress, completed in 1464, was the main point of defence on the land side of Dubrovnik and is in fact the northernmost point of the Walls as well as the highest point. (So be sure to climb for some fantastic views!) The Tower was originally built in a rectangular shape in the 14th century but was then changed to be a round tower in the mid-15th century.

Top Sights in Croatia - Dubrovnik Old Town
A view over the rooftops of Dubrovnik Old Town from Minceta Tower

Pile Gate is the main entrance into the Old Town on the western side and stands where Pile Fortress used to be, which was torn down in 1818. As you approach this gate you will cross a 15th-century, triple-arched stone bridge. Above the gate itself you will notice a statue of St. Blaise, Dubrovnik’s patron saint, that was sculpted by the famous Croatian sculptor Ivan Mestrovic; the gate itself actually consists of two gates, and outer and an inner one which were built at different times.

Pile Gate, Old Town Walls Dubrovnik
Pile Gate with the stone bridge approaching it

On the western side of the Old Town is Ploce Gate which also consists of an outer and an inner gate and a stone bridge on its approach; again, this gate was constructed in the 15th century. Be sure to check out a gorgeous view of the harbour when you cross this bridge!

Next to Ploce Gate is Revelin Fortress which is also adjacent to the Old Town port. This fortress was constructed in the late 16th century to protect the city from attacks from Venice which were considered heightened at the time. These days, the fortress is home to Club Revelin – what an amazing place to do some partying!

St John’s Fortress to the southeast of the Old Town harbour stood to protect the city from attacks from the sea. Completed in 1557, today this amazing building is home to the Dubrovnik Aquarium and the Maritime Museum.

St John Fortress, Old Town Walls Dubrovnik
St John Fortress

The circular Bokar Fortress stands to protect Pile Gate and the harbour just below. Completed in 1570, this fortress was used as an ammunition store and also to test canon range.

Lovrijenac Fortress stands separate to the town walls – but you will get an excellent view of this fortress when you make the walk on them, and a ticket to the town walls also includes a visit here. This was likely the most important defence of the city, given its position 40 metres up on these cliffs. Originally built in the 14th century – likely on the site of a previous fort, which existed perhaps as early as the 10th century – this triangular-shaped fortress was strengthened and changed over the centuries and also needed restoring after the 1667 earthquake. Amazing, the walls of the fortress that face the sea are 12 metres thick, but much, much less so on the side facing inland. Lovirjenac “plays” the Red Keep of King’s Landing in Game of Thrones.

Lovrijenac Fortress, Dubrovnik
Lovrijenac Fortress

Visiting the Old Town Walls

Getting There

Obviously, the Old Town Walls completely surround the Old Town (the clue is in the name!) so once you’re in Dubrovnik, make your way over to the Old Town.

You can obviously marvel at the walls from many a spot inside and outside of the Old Town. In fact, walking around the outside of them – on the land side, of course – is one way of appreciating the magnitude of the walls and the level of protection they bestowed on the town. Should you get a chance, opting for a spot of sea kayaking in Dubrovnik is another fantastic way of seeing the walls, this time from sea level (of course!). Again, you can imagine how imposing the walls would have been to potential marauders.

Entry & Tickets

There are entrances up to the Town Walls by both Pile and Ploce gates, and you can buy tickets for the walls at both of these locations. Personally, we like entering at Pile Gate to make the walk around on the sea side first before heading inland and marvelling at all the pretty orange rooftops. It is also possible to buy tickets online on the Society of Friends of Dubrovnik Antiquities website. Tickets cost €35 for adults and €15 for children under 18 (2023 prices). This includes entry to Lovrenjac Fortress as well.

Old Town Walls Dubrovnik

More info

You can learn more about the walls on the Society of Friends of Dubrovnik Antiquities website. This society was formed in 1952 to protect, preserve and promote the walls. The same society also looks after the stunning town walls in Ston.

Take a look at our Dubrovnik Old Town Photos gallery to see the sights visible on and from the walls.